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    Buyer's Guide

    How to Choose a Back Door

    Back doors take more traffic, more mud, more sun and more rain than any other door in the house. Spec accordingly — here's how.

    1

    Different priorities to a front door

    A back door is a working door. It sees children in and out, shopping in and out, wet dogs, muddy boots, and often direct sun. Kerb appeal matters less; robustness, easy cleaning and a reliable threshold matter more. That points at composite or aluminium — not timber, which sun and rain destroy faster on a rear elevation.

    2

    Locking spec — often overlooked

    The back door is where most break-ins happen, yet it's often the door with the weakest lock. Specify the same 3-star cylinder and multi-point lock you'd use on the front — not a downgraded version. A common insurance clause is 'all external doors 5-lever mortice or multi-point locking'; a cheap back door voids that.

    3

    Half-glazed vs solid

    Half-glazed back doors bring daylight into utility rooms and rear hallways — worth having if the space is otherwise dark. Use obscure glazing (Cotswold, Stippolyte) if the door faces a shared alley or overlooked garden. Solid slab doors give more security and are the right choice for garages, side entries and utility rooms with adequate windows.

    4

    Threshold and level access

    A low or level threshold makes daily use easier — no tripping with hands full of shopping. Modern composite back doors offer 15mm 'low' thresholds with good weather seals; genuinely level thresholds need a drainage channel outside. Both are Building Regs compliant for accessibility.

    5

    Stable-door option

    A stable back door splits horizontally so the top can open independently. Useful for kitchens (pass drinks out to the garden without letting the dog in), for airing without security compromise, and for households with young children. Costs 20–30% more than a standard back door but the operation delights daily.

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