1
Start with how you use the room
If you cook and eat with the doors open in summer, prioritise the biggest clear opening — bi-folds win. If you look out at the garden most of the year with the doors closed, prioritise the closed-state view — sliding doors win. If you have young children who'll run in and out, a single access door alongside a fixed picture pane may be better than either.
2
Opening width and structural implications
3–4m openings suit either a 3-panel slider or a 3–4 panel bi-fold. 4m+ needs conversation with a structural engineer about the lintel or steel above. A 6m opening will need a substantial steel and 400–600mm depth of downstand — factor that into ceiling height planning.
3
Rooflights vs door glass for daylight
For kitchen extensions with a solid roof, rooflights (fixed VELUX or lantern) usually deliver more effective daylight than very tall doors — light from above spreads further than light from the side. Combining medium-height doors (2.1m) with a lantern often looks better than 2.7m doors alone.
4
Threshold detailing for indoor-outdoor flow
If you want tile-out-onto-patio continuity, specify a level-threshold system with an external drainage channel. Coordinate with the tile fitter early — the tile substrate levels and the drainage channel depth need to be planned together, not resolved on site.
5
Common mistakes to avoid
Ordering doors before the structural steel is confirmed (leads to remade doors), specifying dark colours on south-facing elevations without solar-control glass (leads to overheating), and omitting a traffic door on a bi-fold set (leads to daily annoyance). All three are common and all three are avoidable with a proper design conversation.