A door that won't close flush, or needs a slam to shut, has an identifiable cause that's usually straightforward to fix.
If the door catches against the frame partway through closing, the most likely cause is a slight drop on the hinges, pulling the door out of square with the frame it was originally fitted into. This is one of the most common uPVC and composite door issues and is normally corrected with a hinge adjustment rather than any replacement parts.
This points to the latch or multi-point locking pins no longer lining up with their keeps, again usually due to hinge-side drop or, less commonly, worn keeps that have widened with use. A fitter can check alignment and adjust the hinges or replace worn keeps to restore a proper closing action.
Needing extra force to close a door usually means the seals around the frame have swollen slightly, the door has swollen due to moisture (more common on timber-core composite doors that have suffered water ingress), or the frame itself has shifted slightly. Persistent slamming accelerates wear on hinges and the locking mechanism, so it's worth addressing the root cause rather than living with it.
The compression seal around the door frame, and the threshold seal at the bottom, are designed to compress slightly as the door closes. If these have become overly compressed, swollen, or displaced, they can create just enough resistance to make the door feel like it won't close properly, even though the door and frame themselves are perfectly sound.
In doors fitted within the last year or two, particularly in new extensions, slight settlement of the surrounding structure is a normal and common cause of a door starting to bind or not close as smoothly as when first fitted. This typically requires only a minor adjustment rather than indicating any fault with the door itself.
This is often caused by swollen weatherstripping, a slightly swollen door panel, or minor frame movement. A fitter can identify which of these applies and adjust the door or seals accordingly.
Yes, particularly if the multi-point lock can't fully engage — a door that only appears closed but isn't properly latched offers little security, so it should be treated as a priority repair.
In many cases yes, particularly if the door catches or doesn't align with its keeps, since this usually indicates the door has dropped slightly and simply needs realigning.
Not usually — some settlement of a new extension or frame is normal in the first year or two, and a minor adjustment typically resolves it without indicating any problem with the door itself.
A door that scrapes the frame or is hard to lock hasn't broken — it has simply dropped, and it can usually be adjusted back.
A snapped door handle is one of the most common uPVC door faults — and one of the quickest to fix correctly.
A bi-fold door that jams or won't glide is almost always a track or roller issue rather than a fault with the panels themselves.
Black mould on window frames is a moisture problem, not a cleaning problem — here's how to find the real cause.
A window that won't lock is a security risk — most causes are mechanical and fixable without replacing the whole unit.
A window that sags, won't stay open, or feels loose on its hinge is a common and usually inexpensive fix.
Book a visit and we'll identify exactly why your door isn't closing properly and put it right.
